| Producer | Dom du Pas Saint Martin |
| Country | France |
| Region | Loire Valley |
| Subregion | Anjou |
| Varietal | Chenin Blanc |
| Vintage | 2023 |
| Sku | 04798 |
| Size | 750ml |
| ABV | 12.50% |
Organic/Bio Lower ABVThe small vineyard Laurent Charrier calls “The Wind in the Willows” were well known for giving good wine in the 19th century, so when Laurent’s grandfather was able to buy the abandoned site in the 1980s, he jumped. He planted Chenin Blanc on the soils of chunky gravel and schist and today Laurent farms them organically, with lots of cover crops between rows to force the vines to reach deeper into the rocky subsoils. He picks by hand, ferments in old barrels and then allows the wine to rest in those casks just six months before bottling.
My first thought on tasting this was, “Gateway Chenin,” meaning this is just about the perfect wine to try if you want to “get” a grape wine geeks regularly go ga-ga over. The aromatics are complex and, as is normal with Chenin, not very fruity. Then it feels plump and round in your mouth as the wine pumps out intense flavors of ripe apple and tangy quince fruit with complex accents of wet river stones and something floral/savory – lavender maybe? Chenin lovers love Chenin for this savory streak and the grape’s high acidity, which shows here around the edges of the generous mid-palate and then pops hard on the stony finish that just won’t quit. Very hard to stop sipping.
For You If: You’re already a fan of savory Loire Valley Chenin Blanc or have only ever tried it from Vouvray and want to see what else it can do; you’re looking for a stunning pairing for fish prepared simply with herbs and/or mushrooms.
Not For You If: You want your white to be directly fruity and easy/smooth – this has lovely fruit and also a distinctly savory bent and lifts those flavors with crisp, mouthwatering, acidity.
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