Price: $76.99
Sale Price: $66.98
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Lower ABV This is the current release of Les Lys from Defaix, and that alone should tell you that you’re in for something a little different than the “typical” Chablis. Daniel is the 14th generation of the Defaix family to grow and make Chablis wine and his son, Paul-Etienne, has now joined to make 15 passings of the baton from father to son. Winemaking is all in tank, with a cold fermentation for three weeks followed by 3-5 years in tank on the lees and then more time in bottle until Daniel determines the wine ready to drink.
Importer Neil Rosenthal sums up the wine nicely: “Les Lys is a tiny five-hectare cru of which Defaix owns three and a half hectares, all in a southeast-facing section called Clos du Roi—effectively a monopole of the domaine. Its poor soils of pure Kimmeridgian limestone produce perhaps the most complete and distinctive wine in Defaix’s cellar. Combining some of the power of the Vaillon with the chalky intensity of the Côte de Lechet, Les Lys ratchets up the aromatic complexity of the previous two, yet comes across as pure and harmonious. The palate offers ample richness, yet a sense of tension keeps it from feeling opulent, and the chiseled finish offers a strong sensation of dry extract.”
My less articulate note from Wine Paris in February: “No way you think this more than 2-3 years old tasted blind. In tank until being bottled in 2023. Bone dry, very minerally Chablis with fine-grained acids and plenty of salty stone. Excellent length and very satisfying.” Broader and richer than most young Chablis with overt yellow apple and sweet citrus fruit, there’s still plenty of oyster shell and salty stone minerality for support and savory delight. A rare treat!
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