Producer | Maillard |
Country | France |
Region | Burgundy |
Varietal | Pinot Noir |
Vintage | 2018 |
Sku | 04105 |
Size | 750ml |
ABV | 13.00% |
In January 2011, a group of wine buyers sat around a table over a long dinner in Puligny-Montrachet blind tasting Burgundies at virtually every level imaginable. In the middle of a flight of Grand Cru reds from some of Burgundy’s biggest names, a decanter of this made its appearance. Immediately, there was much snorting, sighing, and delight everywhere, and someone looked at Pascal Maillard, sitting to my left, and said, “Pascal, I think this could be your Corton-Renardes.” Pascal’s eyebrows shot up and he snorted, “This is not my wine. My wine is not this good.” Another sniff and sip: “If this is my wine, I’m not charging enough!”
The wine was, of course, Pascal’s – specifically his 2006 Corton-Renardes. Pascal was correct in observing that he probably should be charging a lot more. When we sold the 2006 as a late release a decade ago, it was underpriced at $130. Given what’s happened to Burgundy prices since then, the price here is insanely low.
Grand Cru Burgundy is different. Even two years older than the 2020s 1er Crus in this release, this 2018 is still more wound up and closed in on itself. But already you can sense the depth of concentration here and the deeply rich black and red fruit wrapped in sous bois and tannic grip. Loads of palate length and more loads of crushed rock minerality and almost steely grip. Give it time and it’s going to first turn more profoundly fruit-filled and then make a hard turn towards earthy forest floor and porcini mushroom savory aromas and flavors. A grand, grand, Grand Cru.
For You If: You’re after the single best value in Grand Cru red Burgundy we know of; you enjoy tasting how fine wine evolves over the years.
Not For You If: You’re looking for immediate gratification – this needs 3-5 years to unwind (but you can cheat and drink it now if you give it a couple of hours of air).
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